A SECRET WEAPON FOR SAUCE PEN

It is solely an emulsification—egg yolks and butter cut through with vinegar flavored with tarragon and shallots, using a bite of black pepper. Think of it as a unfastened mayonnaise, demanding only a lot of whisking along with a careful hand with the heat to grasp. ... Use the sauce to steaks or burgers, asparagus or salmon. — Sam Sifton, The